Thursday, November 09, 2006

Watching the Bay


Great day - wrote for much of the morning, caught up with my sister, then went into Funchal with Martin. We pretty much just sat around chatting for hours, which was heavenly.

Funny moment was when we got on to the subject of scabbard fish: he happened to mention that the boat in Baywatch was called The Scabbard. He insisted he wasn't a fan of the show or anything, you know, he just picked up the information along the way.

Doth protest too much methinks...

Wednesday, November 08, 2006

All tidy

Yep, yesterday was doomed in terms of getting stuff done. Chatted to Mrs Codebreaker (who came in with The Guardian) and Landlady (who came bearing raspberry chocolate) for a while. Then Landlady decided I should have a washing line across the terrace, and went and got her husband, who was sent off to get the drill, go and buy hooks, a washing line etc.

Meanwhile Landlady couldn't help herself from straightening things up - you can see it's an overwhelming unconscious urge in her. She checked over the plants, removed dead leaves, tidied the kitchen surfaces, arranged the fridge magnets - it was a haven of activity! I could see relief wash over her when she saw the pantry - it truly looks like something Doris Day put together. I love pantries :)

I made some Lady Grey tea in the background, then through a clever rationalisation whereby I 'deserved' a treat, went out and bought wine and cake.

Anyhoo, I got it all done this morning - and his plane doesn't land for seven minutes! Landlady just phoned from the police station (about the cheque fraudy thing) to say they may need to come over and look at the machine.

Good thing I tidied!

Tuesday, November 07, 2006

Billy in the Bowl

I have a friend arriving tomorrow, and the day he leaves my mom arrives. The neat 'To Do' list I drew up last week has been ignored until this morning.

And what am I doing? Getting stuck into a big bowl of fresh pineapple, and writing away. I'm still in 18th century Dublin. There was a guy who used to go around Oxmantown called Billy in the Bowl, "having been introduced into the world with only a head, body, and arms". The historical account is worth sharing:

When he grew up he conveyed himself along in a large bowl fortified by iron, in which he was embedded. This man was the original "Billy in the Bowl," for though many other personages who got along in various ways were honoured with the same sobriquet, yet this fellow was the king of them all.

He soon ingratiated himself with the simple servant maids from Meath in the respectable houses of Oxmantown. "It's only Billy in the Bowl, ma'am." "Oh, very well," and Billy's bowl was filled with beef, bread, etc. Nature had compensated for his curtailment by giving him fine dark eyes, an aquiline nose, and a well-formed mouth, with dark curling locks, and a body and arms of herculean power.

It turned out that this favourite of the ladies was also a thief and murderer, who took on two women at a time - he'd grab one while turning the iron bowl over the other one to knock them out!

Sufficeth to say I'm engrossed. I can probably distract my visitor with the sea view as I hoover quietly tomorrow...

Monday, November 06, 2006

The thin blue line

Today's horizon is the neatest ever.


Sunday, November 05, 2006

Burn baby burn

When I moved to the UK I had to get used to a mostly bonfire-less halloween - instead we had Bonfire Night a few days later. Several villages in Devon have developed their own unique traditions for celebrating. In Ottery St Mary it's the night of the tar barrels - a crowd of thousands line the village and try to stay out of the way as people run through with flaming tar barrels on their backs. In the village of Shebbear they 'turn the Devil's stone' (which weighs about one tonne) to ensure good fortune for the coming year.

My favourite celebration is in Sticklepath, where a massive stage is built in a little paddock in Finch Foundry. A surreal play ensues, with huge papier mache figures, maybe some Abba music, and a plot that no-one can really follow. Now, the year I went the stage was an ice palace; the play featured flying horses, some disco divas, and a Mommy and baby dragon. It ended with a firework display, so everyone gazed upwards for a bit. When I looked down I noticed that baby dragon had caught on fire. In fact, the whole stage was going up in flames.

And that's the point. They build this fabulous set, and it becomes the bonfire at the end of the night. No better place to have a bonfire than in a teeny paddock, surrounded by ancient protected trees - and eighty fire officers.

Saturday, November 04, 2006

Up on the roof


Purdy sunset from the roof terrace.

Friday, November 03, 2006

Enough to make one blush

Apparently when you blush the lining of your stomach also turns red.

I don't challenge this. What I ask is, how would anyone know that?

What was the idea, tease someone and when they're embarrassed enough slice them open???

Sounds like the work of the Pinkindindies to me...

Thursday, November 02, 2006

News round up

I've been immersed in the history of Dublin for days now, and have finally made it to the eighteenth century. This is the century of the Hellfire club, kidnappings, battles between the Liberty and the Ormond boys, and plenty of other general trouble-making. For sheer flamboyance of name, my favourite rabble-rousers are the Pinkindindies. As a gang name, it doesn't exactly instill cold fear. There's one account of them trashing a Dublin brothel, led in the violence by balloonist Richard Crosbie. Ooh a balloonist, scary... Anyway, I was highly amused just imagining the headlines from the period.

Listening to RTE and BBC radios this morning - everyone's talking about security on flights - I was reminded of the Eddie Izzard unattended bag sketch from the early 1990s. Don’t watch it if you’re travelling soon, because giggling when the safety announcements come on just makes everybody else nervous.

In other news, it's a stunning day here :)

Wednesday, November 01, 2006

Appropriate Weather

There's thunder right over the building, windows are rattling, the world is all white and misty with the palm trees doing their Dance of the Arcs.

The job for the afternoon was to write a stormy scene, so all is ordered for the best!

And the mermaid on the terrace is happily drenched.

Tuesday, October 31, 2006

Myths of biblical proportions

I had a screensaver of Stonehenge on my laptop for a while. One day Landlady came in and pointed at it, "We have one of those here".
Really? Stonehenge was finished around 1500 BC. Madeira was discovered about ten minutes ago...

I have yet to find the stones she's talking about, but today being Halloween, I was thinking that one year I'd like to be in Loughcrew in County Meath on this day. There's a series of hills called the Mountain of the Witch with a load of underground cairns that catch the sun around the autumn equinox. One of the main cairns is circled above ground by kerbstones, the coolest one being the Hag's Seat, which is a massive ceremonial stone measuring 10ft by 6 ft (pictured). The building work is all megalithic (between 4200 BC and 3500 BC).

In reading about Loughcrew, I noticed these guys, who are convinced that:
  1. Jeremiah is buried in one of the cairns. Seriously, the biblical Jeremiah. In Meath.
  2. The final resting place of the Ark of the Covenant is the hill of Tara. Who knew?

I used to work for a fundamental christian in the States, and one of his pet projects was finding the Ark. Many believe that it's buried on the top of Mount Sinai, so he hired a super-duper military helicopter to take him up there. The local authorities saw what they thought was the US military approaching. It did not go well.

Anyhoo, have a lovely Halloween!

Monday, October 30, 2006

Runny honey

It's a bank holiday in Ireland, and I've adopted an easygoing schedule for the day (that's right: any excuse).

The Dublin marathon is on - more than 10,000 are taking part this year. It makes you think: many people have already run 26 miles today. They started in Kildare Street, headed out to the Phoenix Park, then swung back into the city and south, turning again to finish up in Merrion Square.

Me, I've gone out and bought some honey. Yep, that's my big achievement so far today. And it's almost beer-in-the-sunshine time :)

Saturday, October 28, 2006

Treats in the post!

What goodies were waiting in the mailbox!

I got a wodge of sudoku & cryptic crosswords (all hail the great Crosaire) - they've been specially treated to self-destruct if I go near them during writing time. I don't understand all the ins and outs, but it would be like crossing the streams in Ghostbusters, just bad. Thanks Mike!

AND as if that wasn't enough, I also got a way-cool pack for stargazing. It's got a wall chart and a star book but the coolest thing of all is the twirling star finder planisphere! This also has a built-in système to stop me using it during the day. Can't wait for it to get dark. Thank you Shona!

So as a treat, here's some Bill Hicks to bring a smile. Shona - I give you the waffle waitress asking one of life's great questions: 'What you readin' for?'. Mike - Bill didn't do much on financial regulation, but there is a nice piece on marketing.

Have a lovely weekend :)

Friday, October 27, 2006

All in the balance

If I had rented a cabin by the side of a lake (and indeed, I used to live in one in Michigan - photos attached) I could have holed up there for a year and written away in total seclusion. The thing about living here is that if you tried to live like a hermit, people would notice.

Offerings regularly appear on my doormat: the codebreakers leave newspapers (this is when they don’t want to disturb me, 'being a writer and all'); the landlady leaves plants (I almost stood on the last batch). And if I don’t seek people out, they all drop in happily unannounced - neighbours with a tape of an Armenian mass they thought I might like to hear, landlady with freshly baked cake or new fruits to try.

While the lake I used to live at had deer and waterlillies and racoons and squirrels (who ate all my strawberries), this place strikes a balance between providing the space I need to write, and the company to avoid going bat-crazy!

So very lucky :)

Thursday, October 26, 2006

The curious case of the reticent renters

My lovely landlady rents other properties, and I gave her a hand setting up (i.e., I set up) a website ad, email account etc. When it came to accepting payment I suggested paypal, only to learn that she didn't actually have any bank cards (it is such a cash culture here).

Someone contacted her from South Africa to book an apartment for a month. Then a cheque appeared (from a Spanish bank) for almost 5000 euros - we had asked them for a 200 euro deposit. Landlady's bank advised her not to lodge the cheque as it wouldn't clear until the renters had been and gone. And so ensued weeks of bizarre wrangling. Their emails were signed with different names, and they ignored my requests for an address so that I could post out confirmation of booking. The latest email suggests that we've reached an agreement (by cleverly ignoring our previous email), and asks Landlady to send the excess money by Western Union - to Norway! I replied to explain the situation (for the umpteenth time) and asked again for an address.

It's been silent now for three days.

In other news, I moved in four months ago today - it feels longer (although I should, ahem, probably do a bit more sorting out of stuff).

Wednesday, October 25, 2006

The google

The storm lasted all day yesterday: the place is sunny and peaceful this morning, but looks pretty trashed. Here's what it looked like when it finally started to settle - this was still officially daytime.



As a special treat for Anne-Flore (also pictured!) for sterling work yesterday, here’s her favourite Captain Clever talking about 'the google'.


I read the transcript and thought it was a hoax; I should know by now...

Tuesday, October 24, 2006

Road Trip: Istanbul with Anne-Flore

I love hearing 'day in the life' stories from friends and so the 'blog road trip' came to mind; here is our first one! Anne-flore is French, lives in Devon, and in between LSD trips (that's a type of running - long slow distance) finds time to work on a Ph.D. in things of a mappy nature.

Hello! Most of you probably don't know me, so I'll just say that I'm friend of Orlaith's from Exeter. I was in Istanbul at the weekend with a couple of friends, and Orlaith's asked me to guest blog and share a couple of pictures from the city that was once Byzantium and Constantinople.

Istanbul is a pretty big city full of contrasts. To go for the cliché (that is none the less pretty true), it is where the East meets the West, although I found that it satisfied my idea of the East more than it resembled my experience of the West. This was largely due to the days being rhythmically guided by the crying of the imams who call out five times a day from the city's many mosques. The fact that this was the last few days of the fast of Ramadan exacerbated the awareness of being a visitor to a very foreign culture.

History greeted us at nearly every street corner in Sultanahamet, the most easterly of the western shore of the Bosporus. The Haghia Sophia is by far the most impressive of these constructions, because it has visible traces of having swapped religions over the centuries before settling on being a mosque. Conversely, the nearby Blue Mosque (which is still in use) is a monument to Islam through the ages. The epitomous blues tiles create an eerie atmosphere that remind worshippers and visitors that this is a spiritual place.


The Topkapi Palace a few blocks away was the hub of Ottoman power for more than 3 centuries, and is an edifice that I will shamelessly compare to Versailles. Overlooking the Bosphorous on the Golden Horn, the location is stunning and foregrounds the strategic location of the city. There was an impressive harem (no longer in use, I hasten to add) that once housed up to 400 concubines. There were a lot of blue tiles here, all exquisitely painted and mysteriously entrancing. This where we also got to see a pair of sandals that once belonged to the prophet Mohammed as well as a box that contained a lock of his hair. This was kinda weird.

Not far, still, was the Grand Bazaar where one can purchase all the counterfeit Prada, Dolce & Gabbana and Louis Vuitton one could possibly want. (For the records, I did not partake.) I found this place unexpectedly pleasant, and the shopkeepers not too overbearing. Of course, there were a lot of "Lady, come look", but a quick shake of the head was enough to move on in peace. There were a lot of comparatively authentic trinkets here, such as lamps, ceramics and backgammon boards, so, while the shoppers were mainly tourists, there was a somewhat real feel to the whole thing. Basically, not your everyday shopping mall!

The night scene is pretty scarce. In the Tünel and Taksim quarters (where Starbucks and Levi's can be found), a couple of bars and kebab restaurants constituted most of what there is to do once it's dark and the fast can be broken. The local liquor is raki which is a very strong aniseed drink that seems to resemble Greek ouzo. A couple of those and it's time to go home in a dolmus (shared taxi) that whizzes through the illuminated city faster than I care to know...

All this was fuelled by many exciting foods, my favourites being the sweet and rich baklavas. I highly recommend! But it's also the place for various meats, such as sheep's small intestine, which I must say I stayed as far as possible from...

Oh, and just quickly, because this is me, I'll have to mention that there are some great maps to be seen in Istanbul. Very pretty indeed, with the Ottoman script and sophisticated gilt cartouches.

What was also really cool was the earthquake on Friday night. Yeah, it was very mild and lasted only about 15 seconds. The building shook, the windows shook, the sofa shook, the piranhas in their aquarium shook (yes, my friend has an aquarium with piranhas -- and I slept with my head no more than a couple of yards from them. Scary!).

Orlaith, back to you!

Bazaars and raki and earthquakes oh my! A fabulous glimpse into another world - thank you so much :)

Monday, October 23, 2006

Stormy weather

Howling winds, lashing rain... the clouds were actually below the level of my apartment when I woke.

However, I only got to see them for a minute, because now the world looks like this:


You're quite right, it does have all the indications of an afternoon to be spent curled up watching Columbo, but I shall postpone that pleasure and get writing instead! Now where is that sparkle-shiny halo of mine...

Friday, October 20, 2006

Bring your own...

As soon as I got stuck into writing last night the codebreakers called - in case I wanted to see the QE2 as it disappeared into the mist on its voyage from Funchal to Port Elizabeth.

Well, one thing leads on to another: you can't cross their threshhold without glasses of port magically appearing. They brought out a photo album of their trip to Romania a couple of years ago (including piccie of the birthplace of Vlad 'Dracula' the Impaler). One of them had broken the code book of the Romanian secret police way back when, so it meant a lot for them to be able to visit the country.

From there the conversation turned to the Romanian guy in town who goes around with a squeezebox playing gypsy tunes for tourists (the codebreakers get on fab with him, to the annoyance of many). Apparently, when he gets enough money he buys a steak from the butcher, then goes into a restaurant with the raw meat and gets them to cook it for him.

Only in Madeira :)

Thursday, October 19, 2006

Time's a wasting...

Ahem, just getting down to some proper writing now.

I did set out on this task around noon, but as it turned out, I was distracted. The good news is that I've made enough granola for a Roman legion, juiced the pomegranate (yum! - in one of her throwaway rude judgemental comments Martha Stewart said that the 'undiscriminating' think pomegranate juice tastes like cranberry juice. Er, I also watched Martha Stewart today - and I think I've done very well not to glitter a decorative bird and make lavender sachets for my imaginary cottage in Maine. But I digress -), finally found a sieve fine enough to cope with quinoa, and made chamomile-infused olive oil for nice facials.

Man this place smells good!

Anyway, down to work rightnowthisminute. Promise.

Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Life on the freezer

The shops have been filled with Christmas decoration displays since September. Today I finally caved and gave in to temptation.

I got a nativity scene fridge magnet set - very classy indeed!

Let's hope the Penguin of Death isn't threatened by the new arrivals...