When we were all wickered out, we set off. Lovely countryside, pretty flowers, easy levada walk. Until the levada disappeared. We retraced our steps oh, two or three times and kept coming back to the same abandoned creepy house in the forest. Very Blair Witchy.
And so we took to the roads and began heading down the mountain. We found a few levadas along the way, met some locals and more dogs (Sara's dulcid tones can soothe the most rabid hound), and walked down a steep travessa to find ourselves in a lettuce field, having to heave ourselves back up the hill. Three hours passed.
And then we heard it: the strain of music.
Music celebrating onions.
We made it to Canico for the big prizegiving ceremony: young dance groups were entertaining the crowds, the bars were heaving, and yet more onions had appeared overnight.
Beer and Bolo de Caco has never been so welcome. All praise the onion!